Milan
34th edition of Milano Unica strong on sustainability and invention.
Milano Unica offered its view of high-end fabric developments for 2023 SS in February, with firms keen to use the platforms, physical and digital, to introduce developments and new products. But most of all it was to signal their continued presence, particularly in Idea Biella where the elite section has particular relevance to international buyers and designer labels.
The final figures saw a 16 per cent increase in buyers from 342 companies and 27 countries. Several hailed optimism already showing on the markets, having noted a changed mood and an increase in summer spending.
Generally, colours were bold and bright, including red and black and pastel pinks, green and blue used in sweeping dramatic prints on dress weights and shirts on the well-studied trend area.
Various novelties were shown throughout the offer at MU, including technical fabrics, printing methods and fashions comprising active designs and a great deal of accessories and fancy laces which was a real feature of a more ornate look coming through to personalise fashionable styles. Ribbons, braids and lace were particularly prevalent on the trend areas, giving an extra dimension to reworked classic patterns.
Iluna is well known for its ethical approach to manufacturing. Priding itself on both technology and sustainability. Using only certified Roica stretch yarns they intend to establish a whole sustainable supply chain; multicoloured flock from entirely recycled materials, zero water printing. Fancy chenille and metallic effects are in the collection, all aiming for a responsible lace supply chain. Certified Global Recycled Standard- GRS- Green Label, Bioline and biodegradable Roica V550 among the materials used.
New classics Idea Biella
Equally startling are Re-worked classic designs for fabrics in luxury end Idea Biella, overwhelmingly wool but also other blends and linen for summer. They show that though designers’ traditional fabrics for suits are being re-thought and re-coloured, often with easy care or stretch elements and performance, they retain their essential classicism; a hard combination to pull off, but it is what the customers are looking for. Prestigious names like Vitale Barberis Canonico, UK’s Luxury Fabrics, Reda, Loro Piana with knitted soft light fabrics, Cerruti 1881 all with designs re-worked and techno but still classy in their appeal.
Borgini Jersey squares the circle
Italian company Borgini, circular knitters are printing technical jersey in yarn dyed cotton, Modal, linen and also using polyester and polyamide with digital prints, foils and lacquers. The company is skilled at regularly expanding their collections with new on-trend and technical products, for instance recycled polyester knits and new knits bonded with waterproof, breathable membranes.
Sensitive Fabrics – one step further
Eurojersey Sensitive Fabrics played the intense colours and sporty designs for summer which are typical of the season. It is a return to bright, optimistic changes. Euro Jersey has been an acknowledged pioneer of glamour and serious invention this time using imagery of attractive holiday locations special attention is dedicated to environmental sustainability which extends to the way fabrics and clothes can be preserved; easy wash, quick dry, minimal ironing, linking glamour and sporty clothes with sustainability, by a footprint calculator and upfront calculations.
Filo Going with the Flow
Filo Flow is the name of the sustainability project initiated by the Milanese yarn show with an exhibition area at Milano Unica. It was established in order to highlight “the synergy of the yarns which make the basis of many of the fabrics on display” for visitors looking at knitting and weave yarns.
Ecologically sound yarns were chosen specifically to act as a pointer at Filo later in the month, fitting neatly with Milano Unica’s strong commitment to sustainability seen at this show.
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